Comments: I am about to paint a galvanized sheet metal ceiling in a temple.  (not a roof) it is 25 X 60 feet in size.  I need to strip the paint that is currently peeling off the ceiling and then clean the ceiling and prime it and paint it.  It is a big job, so any recomendations on products and procedures would be greatly appreciated.  the temple is about 90 years old and the metal ceiling is directly attached to the wood beams and lath in the attic.  There are areas that the metal is buckled and needs to be srewed into the beams as well.  Thank you.
 
 

Hello Robert
You didn't mention what surface sheen you wanted to have when you were done. I'll assume that you would want a low sheen white for your ceiling. I suggest one coat or our 10-530 white phenolic primer, topcoated with two coats of # 88 Acrylic Latex Low_Sheen paint. This combination, when applied correctly, will give many years of life to your galvanize ceiling. Please let me know if we can help in any way.
Jim Guy
800-642-9505

Comments: We have a galvanized aluminum building that we are going to
pressure wash and then it needs to be primered and painted.  The primer
needs to cover where the pressure washer has pealed off the old paint but
left some of the paint still on the building.  We want the surface to be
smooth when the paint is applied.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Good Morning
You can certainly prime inside the areas where the paint has been blown off but unless you take all the paint off, there will always be a profile where the two surfaces meet. The best thing that you can do is to apply our low sheen siding paint instead of the Semi-gloss siding paint.  The low sheen will not enhance the irregular paint surfaces and go a long way to masking the irregularities. We will send you a brochure of the low sheen siding paint as well as the primer that you can use on the rusted  or unpainted areas.
Thank you
Jim Guy

Your question is a great one and one that we get asked all the time. I cannot emphasize enough that there are great differences between a vertical siding paint and metal roof paint.

• Calbar Metal Building Paint represents the best technology in high performance, water based, 100%  acrylic paints, formulated and developed specifically for use on exterior metal siding panels.  It has tenacious adhesion, and dries quickly for a long lasting decorative and protective finish. Calbar Metal Building Paint resists peeling, fading and blistering, and exhibits exceptional film durability and color fastness. This product is low odor, mold and mildew resistant, and coats most surfaces without a primer.


• Showerproof "WB" is a metal roof paint unlike any other that we are aware of. Calbar Metal Roof Paint has been manufactured continuously for more than 85 years. The ingredients we use are essential for the success of any roof paint.
  I’ll explain. Your metal roof structure is a surface that endures more harsh treatment than any other surface in your home. During the summer, your metal roof could reach temperatures of 180 degrees or more. Most paints are not equipped to handle the constant heating and cooling that a metal roof will endure. When we manufacture our roof paint, we include ingredients that guard against color fade, salt and chemical spray, thermal shock, thermal buildup, rust, chalky surfaces, expansion and contraction, ultra violet rays, and a host of other events that will affect the performance of your roof and its protection. Do not allow someone to tell you that all metal paints are alike, as far as we know; there is none like Showerproof "WB".
  

Hello Candice
Yes we can help! You didn't mention it but I assume that you roof has a factory applied finish, but even if you have a galvanize finish, the cause of the rust, and the solution for its remedy are the same. When the roof was installed, the roof panels were coated with a weather resistant factory finish, and if they could have been installed without fasteners, the factory finish would have been protected for years. The problem comes when any part of the original finish is punctured or sliced through; the cut exposes raw metal that will rust easily. Often times a roof will only be rusty where the overlapping seams have been cut for installation. Eventually, if left untreated, the entire finish will deteriorate resulting in the need to reroof your house or barn. The other thing that you did not mention is how old your roof is. At some point, the rubber grommets that are under the nail head will begin to deteriorate, (ultraviolet rays are especially fierce in the area where you live) and they will require a treatment. You may want to treat them now before you apply the finish coat of paint thereby adding a preventive maintenance step as well as beatification to your project. So, here are the steps necessary to restore your roof. 1.) Power wash your roof to remove contaminants that would interfere with adhesion. 2.) Wash your roof down with a solution of TSP (Tri-Sodium Phosphate). If any mildew is present, add some Bleach to your TSP solution. 3.) Spot prime any rusted areas with 10-520 rust inhibitive Roof Primer. 4. Optional) Treat every nail head with a coating of CRS (Calbar Roof Seal) Moisture Cure Urethane. 5.) Apply two coats of Showerproof "WB" in the color of your choice. 6. Optional) Apply one coat of Showerproof Clear Coat. This will give a Semi-gloss appearance and add additional life to the overall application. Thank you for your question.
Jim Guy

Comments: I have an old shed with one of those wavy tin roofs that leaks.
What type of product could I paint onto the roof to seal it against water?
 

Hi Patrick
Metal roofs leak in many different ways. Each one has it's own repair.  Your fasteners may be leaking which would need our CRS (Calbar Roof Seal). Leaking seams, flashing or rusted through holes will need CRS and Calfab (Mesh). When the repairs have been made, you may topcoat with the Showerproof "WB" color of your choice. Let me know if I can be of further help.
Thank You
Jim Guy
800-642-9505

Comments: I just had a new galvalume roof put on my house after 1 or 2 rains Ive noticed some areas of rust where the metal filings were left after cutting and fitting the roof panael also the edges that were cut are now showing a coat of rust. Any advice would be great.
thanks Richard Wecker

Good Morning Richard
Without seeing the roof it will be hard to give you perfect advice,but I can give you some ideas.
The filings on the roof have probabaly already become sacrificed into the zinc coating and will remain a part of the roof. The rust color you see has probabaly not formed into rust yet, (Iron Oxide) but has formed Zinc Ferrite as the zinc on the roof has encapsulated the filing. 
The cut edges are another issue. The discoloration showing on the edge is also Zinc Ferrite but if left untreated or unprimed, it will turn into rust (Iron Oxide). Evenuually you will need to repaint the roof for esthetic purposes. We can supply a primer for your seams but I would suggest that you take this matter up with your installer.
I hope that we have been of some help
Jim Guy

Comments: In the description of  Calbar Metal Building Paint is the
following statement:
"We recommend that you powerwash all metal surfaces to remove chalk, rust,
mildew and blistering paint.">
How much rust can be allowed?

Hi Alan
Rust is not a problem in any quanity as long as it is spot primed or fully primed using Calbar 10-520 rust inhibitive roof primer.  The powerwashing will get rid of the scaling rust but the metal still needs to be sealed with the primer
Thank you for your question.
Jim Guy

A few years ago, I planted some ivy that grew out of control after a few slow years. After covering the chimney, it grew sideways across the windows, under the aluminum siding, and started to grow under the new roof shingles. I got concerned that it might damage the roof shingles and cover the windows and siding, so I pulled off as much as I could. However, the little tendrils left ''footprints" all over the siding that I can't get off. If I were to use something abrasive, it would damage the yellow siding. They haven't become less noticeable with the passing of winter. Do you have any suggestions?

It is a common problem. Too much ivy can be a hazard, mostly on wood and other kinds of siding. It's pretty well harmless on masonry, except on top of chimneys. Here's how to tackle the little beggars: Give each tendril spot a generous dab of raw or boiled linseed oil. Any oil will work, but linseed seems to work very well. (Do not boil oil to get boiled linseed oil; it is already boiled or chemically treated.) Leave the oil on the tendril spot for 15 minutes or more, then scrape with a wood scraper or scrub with a rough cloth. Wash off the oil and you are home free. Repeat as needed. The oil softens the tendril enough so it can be scraped. What is a wood scraper? A piece of wood with an edge sharp enough to scrape off the tiny tendrils.

Comments: On our farm we have a metal silo approximately 30 feet tall with a diameter of 10 feet. It may be galvinized metal but is quite old. It has been spray painted with a heavy coat of white latex. There is a build-up of paint at the joints with some rust "bleeding through the paint. Overall there is not too much rust showing. What do you reccomend for prep and priming? We have new Northstar metal siding on the adjacent barn and hope to match the color (clay) Approximately how much of which product (paint and primer) do we need? Thank you

Bill Spiker 

Hello Bill
As far as I can tell, your silo is about 1000 sq feet. That would translate to 5 gallons of top coat needed and perhaps a couple of gallons of rust inhibitive primer for the seams. I'm not sure whether or not any of our standard colors would be a good match for your "clay" color but a custom color would require a 25 gallon minimum. Please send us your address if you would like to see a brochure and color chart on the product. Thank You
Jim Guy
800-642-9505

Hi Jim:
I own a house that was built in 1881.  It has a metal roofar ound a third story cupola.  It needs some help.  Do you know of any way that I can tell if it is terne, versus some other metal.  Also, when cleaned prior to painting with your Tin-O-Lin, how critical is it to get
EVERY bit of rust?  By rust inhibitor, does that mean it can stop rust once coated?
A couple more questions after further reviewing the website. Does the primer only come in red? Also, I assume two coats of the Showerproof WB is recommended? And finally...could you mail me color samples of the paint?  There are traces of a green patina paint on the tower.  I would re-do it in this color if it is true.  The website color makes it look a little olive colored.  Actually send the gray color too, as this would be my second choice.
Thanks so much.

Hi Amy
At this point it would be very hard to determine which metal composition was used. You may be able to find out what type of metal was used historically in your area.  I assume that the roof is a standing seam roof which could have been manufactured by Follansbee metal in West Virginia, but there is really no way to be sure. All of that aside, unless you are attempting to maintain the historical significance of your roof paint, We would recommend that you use the Showerproof "WB" roof paint and 10-520 primer. The 10-520 will drastically inhibit the growth of rust in your metal, and the "WB" will beautify it for many years. Since it sounds like an area that you may not want to have to reach again for a long time, I would also suggest topcoating the "WB" with Showerproof Clearcoat. The Clearcoat will inhance the color and add years of protection to the copula. 
Jim Guy

Comments: I have an area of roof which is peeling and may have perforated. certain areas have mastic which is coming loose. I am proposing pressure washing to remove the loose material and loose mastic. What paints should I apply on top to resolve the problem.

Good Morning Howard
I'm not sure what you mean by the word perforating, but if you mean it is spliting and leaking, that can be repaired by using the Calbar Roof Seal (CRS) and mesh. If you have any rust on the roof, you will need to spot prime the rust with Calbar 10-520 primer, after which you may topcoat with two coats of Showerproof "WB".   To prepare the roof for painting, powerwash the entire surface with a 3500 psi powerwasher. Add some Tri-sodium phasphate to your powerwash system or brush it on seperately.  Remove as much of the mastic as possible using the powerwasher and also by beating the roof (not to dent it) with a rubber hose. this will help some or all of the mastic to pop.
We will send you information on the products in question. please call with your questions.
Jim Guy
800-642-9505

Comments: I am going to paint a Tin roof with your Tin-O-Lin brand oil
based paint.  The roof currently has a water based paint, would it be
possible to paint over the water based paint with the Tin-O-Lin paint?
Thanks.

We would not recommend painting a waterbased product with a linseed oil product.  You will want to paint with Showerproof "WB". We will send you information on WB as well as the primer you will need if you have any rust on the roof.
Please feel free to call if you have any questions.
Jim Guy
800-642-9505

Comments: Is Shower-Proof "WB" the best choice for a rusted roof or would
10-520 RUST INHIBITIVE METAL ROOF PRIMER be a better choice?

Hi,
I have an older home (1840) with 3 different metal roof surfaces.  The first surface is old and it is strips of metal with standing seams and horizontal seams.  It was coated with an aluminum asphalt type of coating and then has been painted twice with an oil base paint.  Paint starts peeling after a year.. 2nd roof is same material but was never coated with aluminum paint.  It's just rusty.  3rd roof is a more modern metal roof say 50 years old and in good shape just dirty and faded paint.  What's the best way to do all 3, I am guessing it may be different for each.  This has been very frustrating because all the local painters want to do is scrape and prime the first roof...but so far that's not lasting.. any help would be appreciated...and obviously I'll use your paint.

Dr. Leo Marvin

Good Morning Dr. Marvin

Comments: I have a large steer barn with a metal roof (unpainted).  The roof is starting to rust.  After powerwashing the roof with TSP, I am considering using your ShowerProof WB and 10-520 Rust Inhibitive Primer.I would strongly prefer to use an airless sprayer to apply these coatings. What tip sizes and flow rates do you recommend for each product?  I use a SprayTECH 2155 for other work (3/4 HP. .020 max tip size).  At first blush, it looks like my unit could be used to spray the primer, but might not be large enough to use for your paint. I don't mind renting, just want to sort it out before I start.

Hi Norm,
You will have no problem spraying either product using a #17 tip.  I am not familiar with your specific gun but i would not expect you to have any problem.  The Showerproof is a similar viscosity to heavy bodied house paint. Also, you will want to take a look at your fasteners before painting to make sure that they are not deteriorating.  If they are, we have a solution for them also.  Flow rate will be determined by you on the job but you will want to make sure that you are getting about 3 wet mils of primer on the roof and 8 wet mils of Showerproof " WB" which will yield 12 dry mils after two coats.  Please feel free to call us if you have any other questions.

Comments: In about 1997 we replaced our roof with metal roofing.  Red
Tin-o-lin was covered with Grey Shower Proof in a period of 7 to 10 days.
The paint last year and again this year is coming off one section in large
strips leaving bare metal.  The grey paint and red undercoat
come off as one piece.  How should we clean and/or treat the metal to make the
undercoat adhere and how long should we let it dry before covering with an
upper coat.  Any suggestions on products and technique would be
appreciated.  Also we have places where the grey has peeled leaving the
red undercoat in place.  What cleaning method will prepare the surface for
touch-up painting.
Thank you,
Diarmuid ("D") Nicholson

Comments: What do you have for galvanized metal siding that has rusted?

Good Morning
In your situation we recommend spot priming the rusted areas with Calbar 10-520 rust inhibitive metal primer and then apply two coats of our Metal Siding Paint to restore the galvanize panels.  If you wish to receive information on the products as well as preparation procedures, please email us with your mailing address or call us at 800-642-9505.
Thank You
Jim Guy

Comments: Please send pricing guide for your products. And let me now if
you are able to ship such material. Thank you.

We are able to ship to you directly from our factory
however, prices are dependant upon how much is purchased.
We will be sending you several brochures on our product
for your perusal.Thank you for you interest in Calbar products.
David Guy
 
 
 

I have been told that there are products that contain Linseed Oil that will keep it from rusting, as well as improving the appearance of my roof. Can you recomend a Paint like this? Does it Work? Where can I get it? How does it get applied? How long will it last? Guarantees? Thanks for any help that you can provide

Sheryl